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LIBRARY OF CONGtttbi;. 

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Shelf .K 5 *£> 



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UMTLD STATED OF AMERICA. 



ILLUSTEATED. 



SEWING PEIMEE, 



WITH 



SOJ^GS AND MUSIC. 



FOE SCHOOLS AISTD FAMILIES. 



^J^.i I ^ AERANaElK BY 

^ LOlflSE J. KIBKWOOS), 

"wix^soisr z 3sr X) TJ s 1? lEi, I .A. Xj school, 
125 St. Mark's Pla<je, New York, 

(i APR 14 1881 1 

NEW YORK: H/J-Crw 
WYNKOOP «fe HALLENBECK, PRINTERS, 
121 Fulton Street. 

1881. 






1'° 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881, by LomsE J. Kirk- 
wood, in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 
All rights reserved. 



^ 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE. 

Preface 5 

Hints to Teachers 7 

Preparation for Sewing 10 

The Workbasket 10 

Cutting 11 

Needles and Thread 13 

Basting 14 

Overhanding 15 

Hemming 16 

Running 17 

Felling 17 

Stitching and Backstitching 18 

Gathering 19 

Overcasting 20 

Buttonholes 21 

Herringbone and Feather Stitch 22 

Patching and Darning 23 

Putting away Work 24 

Solomon's Industt"ious Woman 24 

Knitting 25 

About Dresses 26 

Woven Fabrics 26 

SONGS. 

1. The Patchwork Quilt 28 

2. Katy Did 30 

3. Little Jeuny 32 

4. Try, O Try 34 



4 CONTENTS. 

5. Tlie Work for Me 36 

6. Stitching with Thread and Needle o7 

7. Dear Little Girl 38 

8. Swift-flying Needle 40 

9. The Idle Girl's Serenade ,. . . . 42 

10. Stitching Firm and Fast 44 

11. Overhanding 46 

12. StitchAway 48 

13. The Stitches in Time 50 

14. Stitching a Robe for Baby 52 

15. Finger Lessons 54 

16. Fasten the Thread 55 

17. Sing and Sew , . . 56 

18. Nimble, Nimble 56 



PREFACE. 



Numerous inquiries regarding the plan of con- 
ducting large classes in sewing in Industrial Schools, 
have induced the publication of the Sewing Primer^ 
the lessons of which have been, from time to time, 
worked out for the benefit of such classes. 

Portions of these lessons have existed in various 
forms for several years, first as leaflets, and later in 
the Little Housekeeper^ published by Randolph, 
and have proved their practical value, by a widely 
extended circulation. 

The Primer is but an enlargement of these publica- 
tions ; and although not claiming to be exhaustive, 
it includes what seems to be the most needful 
instruction in plain sewing. 

The Songs, set to popular airs, are designed to 
awaken enthusiasm in what may sometimes seem to 
the child a prosaic subject ; at the same time they 
embody rules and suggestions which will be of use 
in later life. 

The advantages of industrial education which will 
fit our girls for the practical duties of life, need not 
here be set forth, but an earnest word in their be- 
half cannot be amiss. While abundant facilities 



f) PREFACE. 

have been placed within the reach of the poorer 
children, those of the middle and higher classes 
suffer neglect. 

This want has been recognized in the public 
schools of some of our large cities, and, as a result, 
sewing introduced as a regular exercise. 

If girls of but one grade — say from nine to twelve 
years — could be afforded the opportunity of be- 
coming familiar with the use of the needle, it would 
be a telling step in the right direction, putting them 
in possession of a most valuable art, which would 
prove an armor of defense against temptation to 
idleness, which leads to want and so often to crime. 

That this little book may give an impulse in the 
direction of this industrial pursuit is the desire of a 
practical worker. 

Xi. J. K, 



HINTS TO TEACHERS. 



Witli the aid of one or two g-ood monitresses, to give out the 
cotton and to carry back and forth the work from teacher to 
scholar, and with a good supply of basted work on hand, one 
teacher can manage successfully a class of from twenty-five to 
thirty girls ; more than this it is not wise to tr^^ to teach, else 
the scholars will be neglected and the teacher overburdened. 

LABEL THE WORK. 

Each child should have her work rolled up by itself and 
marked distinctly. 

It is a good plan to have for each one a little thimble-bag two 
inches square, made of white muslin and marked in ink with her 
name in full. 

When the time for sewing is over, let each one roll up her 
work neatly, put her thimble in her bag and pin it to her work 
with the name up. In this way it will take but a very few 
minutes to give out work to a large class, and make a very 
simple operation of what, with less system, becomes a confused 
one. 

SHORT HOURS. 

Experience has taught that, for little children, from one-half 
to three-quarters of an hour daily is quite long enough to secure 
the best results. They will hardly grow weary in this time, 
and in most cases they will lay down their work reluctantly. 



Q HINTS TO TEACHEKS. 

VARIETY. 

Experience teaclies, too^ that it is necessary to study variety 
in giving them work. 

If a child does not succeed satisfactorily at first with an 
over-and-over seam, do not insist upon keeping her at it until 
she is exact. She will have to sew upon many a patch, per- 
haps, before she can make the stitches small, even, and close. 
But try her with a hem or a back- stitch ; she will be growing- 
used to handling the needle, and, after one or two trials of this 
sort, she will go back to the over-and-over seam with fi-esh 
interest. 

STRAIGHT LINES. 

Draw a line with a lead pencil on the strip of muslin which 
has been hemmed, and, with the needle threaded with red 
cotton, show her how to stitch along the line. The red cotton 
will be a novelty, and the pencil mark a new feature; she will 
be ^-iery likely to follow^ it to the end with real pleasure. 

OUTLINE PICTURES. 

Draw some straight lines in the form of a house, or a barn ; 
make the outlines of a crooked tree by the doorway ; make a 
chicken with two or three flowing feathers in its tail ; make a 
man with a rake in his hand ; above all things, make an old 
lady with a high cap on and a cane in her hand, and you will 
never have trouble to keep the little ones busy. 

They will very cheerfully hem round a square in the most 
painstaking manner, they will even struggle patiently with a 
fell seayn across it, if at the end you will but promis-e to draw a 
dear old grandmother with a cap and cane, that they may 
stitch. 



HINTS TO TEACHERS. 



WRITING. 



Then, too, you may wiite the child's name and age in a fair 
clear hand; you may add a motto, or some short line. 

Get her to hem in a neat patch in a piece of cloth ; she will 
be proud to stitch her initials on it. Anything of such personal 
interest she will work at very gladly, and will all the while he 
growing more and more skillful with her needle and captivated 
with its possibilities ; thus traveling, if not a royal road to 
knowledge, at least a very pleasant one. 



A SEWING PRIMER, 



WITH 



0T{^^ kr^d ]\iu^id. 






PKEPAEATIONS FOE SEWING. 

1. How should a little girl be prepared for sewing f 

By having clean hands, clean nails, a clean face, 
tidy hair and a clean apron. 

2. On what should she sit while sewing ? 
On a low seat. 

3. Whijf 

That her feet may touch the floor, and her lap be 
level, so that her work mil not slip off easily. 

4. Should she stoop over her work f 

]^o, because it cramps the lungs. She should 
bring her work to her eyes, rather than her eyes to 
her work. 

THE WORKBASKET. 

5. What does a good sewer* s worJcbasket contain ? 

A thimble, pin cushion, needle book, with sewing 
needles, darning needles and a tape needle, scissors, 



CUTTING. 1 1 

an emery bag, and a bag or box to hold spools of 
cotton. 

6. }Vhat is the use of an emery hag f 

To brighten the needle when damp or rusty. 

CUTTING. 

7. What articles are needed for convenience in cutting f 

A table or l^^prboard to lay the material on, pins 
to fasten the pattern to it, and a good pair of scissors. 

8. How should you hold the scissors f 
With the pointed side down. 

9. Wliich part of a plain calico dress waist should you cut 
first f 

The lining. 

10. Should you fold the cloth f 

Yes ; double it evenly the lengthwise of the cloth. 

11. Why should you double it f 

So that where there are two pieces to be cut alike 
they may be cut together. This will also prevent the 
mistake of making them both for one side. 

12. How should you lay on the pattern f 

With the straight side of the pattern to the straight 
folded edges of the goods. 

13. How sJtould you cut f 

Smoothly and evenly, so that the edges are not 
jagged. 



12 CUTTING. 

14. Before cutting the outside of the waist what should you he 
careful to notice f 

If there is an up and down to the goods. For in- 
stance — if there is a pattern of a vine or anything 
that grows, let the plant seem to grow up. If the 
pattern is of a figure, let the heavy side of it be down. 

15. What are the names of the threads in woven goods f 
The warp and the woof. 

16. Which is the warp f 

The threads up and down. 

17. Which is the woof? 
The threads across. 

18. What is a bias cut f 

A slanting cut, or a cut across both the warp and 
the woof. 

19. Hoiv can you get a true bias f 

By folding back a straight edge of the end of the 
goods to the straight side, or selvedge of the goods. 
This will form a three-sided piece. Cut along the 
fold or the longest side of this piece, and you will 
have a cut on the true bias. 

20. Which way of the goods should you cut hands or belts f 
The lengthwise of the goods ; they will not stretch 

if taken this way. 

21. How should you cut a piece for a ruffle f 
Crosswise of the goods. Any straight piece which 

is to be gathered should be taken this way. 



NEEDLES AND THREAD. 13 

22. How should you cut linen f 

First draw a thread and then cut along the line of it. 

23. Is it necessary to cut off the lengths for sheets and pillow- 
slips f 

Not if the goods are of cotton. Cut across the 
selvedge, and tear it the rest of the way. 

NEEDLES AND THREAD. 

24. How should a sewer choose her needle and thread f 
According to the work she has to do. A coarse 

needle and thread for coarse work, and a finer 
needle and thread for finer work. A No. 8 needle 
with No. 50 cotton is suitable for nice sewing on 
ordinary under clothing. 

25. What hinds of needles are used in sewing f 
Betweens, blunts and sharps. Betweens are best 

for little girls to use, because they are not so. 
easily bent or broken. 

26. How long a piece of thread should he used f 

A piece about as long as the arm of the sewer. 

27. What is good to rub the fingers with when they are damp f 
A piece of soft chalk. 

28. What should one do when the thread Jcinhs f 

Break it off and begin at the other end. In using 
spool cotton, thread the needle with the end that 
conies off first, not where it is broken, as this causes 
it to kink. 



14 BASTING. 




BASTING 



* 



29. Wlien work is cut out, what should he done next ? 

It should be basted. It is not safe for little girls 
to sew unbasted work ; they will be very likely to 
have trouble with it and liave to rip out the sewing. 

30. How should work he hasted f 

Evenly, so that the basting may hold the parts in 
pMce and be a guide to the sewing. 

31. Where should the line of sewing he f- 

Close under the basting, except in the over-and- 
over seam. 

32. What is a seam ? 

A line of sewing joining together two or more 
pieces of cloth. 

33. Name the different hinds of stitches used on plain sewing f 
Overhanding, hemming, running, backstitching 

or stitching, gathering, overcasting, buttonhole, 
herringbone, feather stitch, and darning. 

* .See Finger Lesson Song, page 54. 



OVERHANDING. 15 




Showing the seam opened and on the right side. 
OVEKHx\NDING. * 

34. Hoiv must an overhand seam he held f 
Between the finger and thumb. 

35. Should the sewer put a knot in her thread ? 

l^o ; she should leave a little end of the thread 
and sew it down with the first stitches. 

36. In what direction should she sew f 
From the right hand to the left. 

37. How should the seam he finished f 

By sewing back two or three stitches. This will 
fasten the thread securely. 

38. When the seam is finished, what should she do f 

Pull out the basting, open the seam, and rub it 
down with the nail. 



* See Overhanding, page 46, which is a complete lesson in rhyme 
for the overhanding seam. 

The Scholar should not take the stitches in the cuts as models 
for size. They are represented as considerably enlarged, so that the 
line of the thread aud the direction of the stitches may he clearly 
seen. 



16 HEMMING. 



^J'^^/^/JW^^^^J'J'^^^^y' 




Showing the stitches on the right side of hem, with the needle in 

position. 



HEMMING. 

39. How should a hem he turned down f 
Very evenly. 

40. How may a child learn to turn down a hem f 

By practicing on small squares or strips of soft 
paper. 

41. How should a sewer begin to hem ? 

When the hem is turned down nicely she should 
turn the needle with the point toward the right, and 
stick it only through the edge turned down, leaving 
a little end of the thread to tuck under the hem, to 
be sewed under by the next stitches. 

42. How should she hold the needle when the hem is begun ? 

Nearly on a line with the hem, with the point 
toward the left hand. 

43. SJwuld tlie stitclies be straight or slanting f 
Slanting. 



RUNNIN^G S"ELLING. 



17 



44. How may a hroad hem he Jcept even f 

By measuring every few inches with, a paper 
measure. 

45. How should tlieends of ahem he finished f 
They should be neatly over-handed. 

RUNNING. 




Showing running stitches, with the needle in x>osition. 

46. Wiat is the rule for fine running? 
Take up two threads and skip two. 



FELLING. 



* 




A fell seam, showing the first line of sewing finished, the edges turned 
under and partly hemmed. 

47. How must a fell seam he hasted and sewed ? 

With one edge of the garment above the other and 

* See Song — Try, Try, page 34. 



IS 



STITCHING AND BACK STITCHING. 



sewed with the grain of the muslin ; thus, a chemise 
from the bottom up, and drawers from the top down. 

48. How should the seam he sewed f 
With one backstitch and one running stitch, and 
then hemmed down neatly. 

40. When is a fell seam well done? 
When it is narrow, very evenly turned under and 
carefully sewed. 



STITCHING AND BACKSTITCHING. 





BackstitcLing, showing the needle in position. 
50. What is the difference between stitching and backstitch- 



ingf 



In stitching the stitches meet ; in backs titching 
there is a space between. The manner of taking 
the stitches is the same in each. 



GATHERING. 



19 



51. Give a rule for stitching f 

After the thread is drawn through to the right 
side, take the point of the needle back two threads 
and pass it under two before, and so on, making 
each new stitch meet the one behind it. 



GATHEKING. 



oiniriJOiLiciuL 




Showing gathering stitches, with the thread drawn and the needle 

in position. 

52. How shoidd work he prepared for gathering f 

It should be divided in halves, and if a long piece, 
in quarters, placing a pin to mark each division. 

53. What next f 

Take a little coarser thread than is used for the 
sewing, put a knot in the end, and begin to gather a 
little distance from the edge of the cloth. 

54. Hoio long a thread should he used f 

A piece a little longer than the part the gathering- 
is to be fastened to. 

55. Wliere hegin to gather f 

About a quarter of an inch or less below the raw 
edge (see cut). If the edge is to be turned down, 
gather nearer to the turned edge. 



20 OVEKCASTIXa. 

56. What is tlie rule for gathering ? 

Take up two threads and skip four threads. 

57. What should he done after tlie work is gathered f 
Place the gathers. 

58. How? 

Draw lip the gathering thread tightly and fasten 
it by twisting it around a pin, and place every gather 
straight with the point of a coarse needle. 

59. How mai/ tlie gathers he sewed to a hand ? 

Each gather should be either hemmed, back- 
stitched, or overhanded to the band or part, as the 
case requires. 

OVERCASTING. 



r 

-JbN. .?^ 



v^vxx^^^rv 



Showing overcasting stitches, witlr the needle in position. 

60. What are overcasting stitches ? 

Loose over-and-over stitches taken over the raw 
edges of a seam. 

61. How should seams he made ready for overcasting f 
They should be evenly trimmed ^vith the scissors. 

62. Wliat should overcasting stitches he ? 

They should be easy, slanting, even, and not too 
close or too deep. 



BUTTONHOLES. 



21 




0,>Uiv 



;y V/ '■ 1 1 1 111 I M 1 111 111 111 1 1 1 
^4— <!>""'" " 



Showing a but tou hole overcast 
and barred, and the button- 
hole stitches besruu. 



Buttouhole for an outside gar- 
ment. The stitches in this 
cut are shown only by a single 
line. 



BUTTONHOLES. 

63. Hoiv sliould a buttonhole be cut ? 

Long enougli to reach across the middle of the 
button. 

64. How should a buttonhole be held for working f 
Along the first finger, lengthwise. 

65. How should a buttonhole be begun f 

By overcasting closely and barring the sides. 

66. Where should one begin to ivorh a buttonhole f 
At the bottom of the left-hand side. 

67. Hoiv is the buttonhole stitch made f 

By passing the thread around the needle after the 
stitch is taken. 



22 



HEEEINGBONE AND FEATHEK STITCH. 



68. How closely should a buttonhole be worked ? 
With a stitch between every other thread. 

69. How can the stitches be kept even along the sides ? 
By worlving the stitches evenly by a thread. 

70. Give a general rule for making a buttonhole f. 

For undergarments make six stitches in each end, 
that it may be strong and even. For outside gar- 
ments make the head of the buttonhole round by 
cutting out a small piece, that the button may lit 
nicely. The foot of the buttonhole should be 
finished with a small buttonhole bar. 

HERRINGBONE AND FEATHER STITCH. 




Herringbone stitches. 




Featlier stitches. 



71. On what is herringbone and feather stitch used? 
On flannels and other woolen cloths, to sew down 
the hems and over the seams-. 



PATCHING AND DARNING. 



23 



72. What is very im])ortant in sewing ? 

To make the stitches small, even, and close, to 
conceal the knots when needful to make them, and 
to finish the work neatly. 

73. When is work ivell finished f 

When it is neat and clean, the stitches firm and 
even, and all the threads well fastened. "^^ 

74. How many hinds of stitcJies are put upon a simple calico 
dress f 

t There are eight kinds of stitches needed on such 
a dress : The breadths of the skirt are run and haclf,- 
stltched together ; it is hemmed at the bottom ; it is 
gathered at the top ; it is overhanded to the waist ; 
the shoulder and side seams of the waist are stitched 
together ; there are buttonholes worked in it, and 
the seams are overcast. 

PATCHING AND DARNING. 



^V \ 1 I 111 I ! 1 / V 

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if 



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Showing a patch darned in. 



* See Song — Fasten the Thread, page 55. 

t It makes a pleasant variety sometimes for small children to 
answer this in concert, pointing ont on the dresses they wear the 
different lines of sewing as they are named. 



24 



PUTTING AWAY WOKK, 




" D n Q DD a .»> 



Stockins: dam. 




A tear darned. 



75. Hotv sliould every one's ivardrohe he kept f 

Neatly mended. A patch nicely put in or a 
careful darn is an ornament, where a hole would be 
a disgrace. * 

PUTTING AWAY W^OKK. 

76. When the time is past for sewing y Iww should work he 
put away f 

It should be folded neatly and laid in a drawer or 
closet, where it will not get dusty. 

77. Wlien is a workbasJcet in perfect order ? 

When the spools are all in a box or bag, with the 
ends of the threads fastened, the needle-book tied 
up, the scissors in their cases, and no articles in it 
but those needful for sewing. 

Solomon's industrious woman. 
^' She seeketh wool and flax, and worketh willing-ly ^vith her 
hands. She is not afraid of the snow for her household, for 
all her household are clothed in scarlet. She maketli herself 
coverings of tapestry; her elothing is silk and purple. She 
maketh fine linen and selleth it, and delivereth girdles to the 
merchants. Strength and honor are her clothing, and she shall 
rejoice in time to come." — Prov. xxxi, 13, 21, 22, 24, 25. 



KJ^ITTING. 



2o 




WlieTi daylight is flitting", 
We take up our knitting. 



2C ABOUT DRESSES — WOVEN FABRICS. 

ABOUT DRESSES. 

78. How sJtouId a child's dresses he made ? 

Well fitting, but tliey should be plain and neat. 

79. What dress materials are best for little girls who help 
their mothers with housework at home f 

Either calico or gingham. 

80. Wht/f 

Because they can be washed, and so may always 
be fresh and clean. 

81. Is it best to choose very dark colors f 

No ; they do not always wash the best, and are 
apt to be worn after they are really dirty. 

82. What should be looked for in choosing a calico home 
dress f 

A firmly woven fabric, with groundwork well 
covered by the pattern. 

83. Are mixed fancy goods woven of cotton and ivool, silk 
and wool, etc., the best to wear f 

'No ; usually the most serviceable are woven all of 
one material. 

84. What materials are good to buy for aproyis ? 
Calico, gingham, and barred muslin. 

WOVEN FABRICS. 

85. Of what are all woven goods made f 

Out of spun yarn, either of silk, wool, flax, cotton, 
hemp, or jute. 



WOVEN FABKIOS. 2T 

86. From what do we get silk f 

From tlie cocoon spun by the silk- worm. 

87. From what do we get wool f 
From the sheep' s coat. 

88. Name some goods woven of wool f 
Flannel, merino, cashmere, cassimere, etc. 

89. Ofivhat are linen goods made ? 

Of flax, taken from the flax plant. 

90. Name some articles in common use that should always he 
made of linen ? 

Collars, cufls, shirt bosoms, jDOckefc handker- 
chiefs, towels, table cloths, and napkins. 

91. From what do ive get cotton f 
From the cotton plant. 

92. Name some goods ivoven out of cotton f 

Muslin, cambric, gingham, calico, lawn, and bed- 
ticking. 

93. Name some articles we make out of cotton cloth? 
Dresses, aprons, all undergarments, sheets, and 

pillow-slips. 



THE PATCHWORK gUlLT. 



Words bv A. W. K. 



Music, ''Old Noah: 



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ho, Ma - ry made a patcli-work quilt, o - ho, o - 

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ho, Of prettiest col - ors it 

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is made. And ill the prettiest 




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pat-tern In 1(1, And Oh how gay is Mary's patch-wcrK quilt. 

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THi: PATCHWORK QUILT. 29 



THE PATCHWORK QUILT. 

Mary made a patchwork quilt, oho, oho, 
O Mary made a patchwork quilt, oho, oho, 
Of prettiest colors it is made. 
And in the prettiest pattern laid, 

And oh how gay is Mary's patchwork quilt 



Mary's quilt is soft and warm, oho, oho, 
O Mary's quilt is soft and warm, oho, oho, 
All lined with cotton fleecy white, 
To keep the cold out well at night, 

And oh how gay is Mary's patchwork quilt ! 



The girls who learn to knit and sew, oho, oho, 
The girls who learn to knit and sew, oho, oho. 
Will make the household warm and bright, 
And fill the home with cheer and light, 

And oh how gay is Mary's patchwork quilt ! 



KATY DID. 



Words by A. W. K. 



.2 1 , ^ 1^ . 1^ 13. 

-* — • •• — .g. — S — ^* • — ^: — 5- 



Music froui Carol, by pertnission of 
Ivison, Taylor, Blakeman dr" Co. 



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Poor uii - hap - py lit - tie Ka - tie, Sit - ting all a - lone, 



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Tears up - on her face, and sad - ly Sounds her troubled moan. 



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plsi? 



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Ka - tie tore it, tore her dot - ted dress of snow-y lawn, 

Ka - tie tore it, tore her dot - ted dress of sno\v-y lawn, 



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Yi'S, she did, Ka - ty did, Ka - ty did - n't, Ka-ty did - n't, 



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Ka-ty did, Ka-ty did -n't, Ka-ty did- -she did. 
- - - - - - - ^ 



:i 






KATY DID. 31 

KATY DID. 

Poor unhappy little Katie, 

Sitting all alone, 
Tears upon lier face, and sadly 
Sounds her troubled moan. 
Katie tore it, tore her dotted dress of snowy lawn ; 
Katie tore it, tore her dotted dress of snowy lawn ; 
Chorus. — Yes, she did, Katy did, Katydid'nt, Katy didn't, 
Katy did, Katj^ didn't, Katy did — she did. 

Zephyrs, hush, and hush, you Rover, 

Never tell the tale 
Of the race that Kittie led you, 
Over hill and dale. 
Katie tore it, tore her dotted dress of snowy lawn ; 
Katie tore it, tore her dotted dress of snowy lawnj 
Chorus. — l''es, she did, etc. 

Cheer up, cheer up, little maiden, 

Cease your tears to spend ; 
See, this shining little needle 
Soon the rent will mend. 
Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle fine ; 
Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle iinej 
Chorus. — Yes, she did, etc. 

Never, never mind them, Katie, 

You so well can sew j 
When the tear is neatly mended^ 
None will ever know. 
Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close "with needle fine 5 
Katie sewed it, wove the stitches close with needle fine ; 
Chorus. — Yes, she did, etc. 



Words by A. W. K. 



LITTLE JENNY. 

Music by permission of IVni. A. Po7td &^ Co., 
0W7iers of the Copyright, 



-9- 





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LITTLE JENNY. 33 



LITTLE JENNY. 

O busy little Jenny, 
Sitting very still, 
Holding fast lier needle, 
Working mtli a mil. 
How pink lier little fingers ! 
Nails a rim of pearl. 
Hold your needle steady , 
To thread, my little arirL 

So kind to all her schoolmates, 
Gentle in her play 5 
Whether rain or sunshine, 
In her seat each day. 
0, smiling little Jenny, 
In her gingham dress, 
Is the happiest maiden 
In her class, I guess. 



TRY, O TRY. 



Words by L. J. K, 



ii^H^ 



Air — " Buy a hraant." 



O stitcb-inir is witch - iiiir, And hemming as well, But 



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tie one, 


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TRY, O TRY 



TRY, TRY. 

stitching is witching, 

And hemming as well, 
But what is distressing 

Is turning a fell. 
I'm sick of such seaming, 

And ready to cry, 
But I hear the word ringing, 

" Try, little one, try ; 
Try, try; try, try;" 

I hear the word ringing, 
'' Try, little one, try." 



And so I am striving, 

As hard as can be. 
To keep back my crying, 

Just so I can see. 
And may be mth helping, 

At last I shall leani 
The worst fringy edges 

Most neatly to turn. 
^'Try, try; try, try;' 

I hear, etc. 



THE WORK FOR ME. 



Words by L. J. K. 

nii 






Music, "O, Susanna. 



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1. 'Tis fun to dance and skip and run, Who 



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loves it more than we, 



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Good fun it is to 
1 just can have the 

Tr N— T— N ^ K N—i 



FINE. 




sweep and dust, And ti - died up to 
nic - est time, AVith sew - ing on my 



be. 
knee. 



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But my sev\'-ing, Tliafs tlie work for me. 



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STITCHING WITH THREAD AND NEEDLE. 



Words by A. W. K. 



, — * — » - 




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M7isic fro7n ^''Gospel Hymns.'* 
By permisst07i of Big low 6^ Main. 



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1, Stitcliiiig with thread and nee - die, Holding my work with care, 

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Just like a grown up la 



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dy, I sit in my ti - ny chair. 



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2 Now I can make my stitches 

All in an even row, 
And tirmly as if they grew there, 
I make them stay, you know. 

3 Yes, indeed, I am busy. 

Busy as I can be, 
My work is not half finished, 
It must be done, you see. 

4 Seams must be straight and even, 

Never a knot be seen; 
Hems all nicely folded. 

And kept so neat and clean. 



5 'Twill soon be time for recess. 
Then we go out to pkw. 
I've worked so hard I'm tired, 
Please put my work away. 



DEAR LITTLE GIRL. 



Wods by L. J. 


K. 










Music Selected. 


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what do you think She was sew - ing 

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of white, 


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DEAR LITTLE GIRL. 39 



DEAR LITTLE OIRL. 

A dear little girl 

Sat low at my knee, 
And wliat do you think 

She was sewing for me I 
A gay little patch 

Of red and of white^ 
And each little stitch 

She set just right — -jost right, 

A scons of bright girls 

Sat full in my sio-ht. 
And the garments they sewed 

Were dainty and white. 
The stitches they made 

Were tiny and strong, 
And humming, they worked. 

To low, sweet song — sweet song. 

i**J^ot lambs in the field, 

Nor birds in the tree, 
In all their delight, 

Can happier be 
Than they, who their work 

^J.^'hus mingled mth song, 
As hours glide smoothly 

And gayly along — along. 



SWIFT FLYING NEEDLE. 



Words by L. J. K. 

N-, i 



Music Selected. 






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mus - lin and lin 



en, Speed you a 



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shall be well done, 



By you and by me. 



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SWIFT FLYING NEEDLE. 41 



SWIFT FLYING NEEDLE. 

O swift flying needle, 

Stitching to song, 
Through muslin and linen, 

Speed you along. 
So much is to do, 

Quick you must be. 
Work shall be well done 

By you and by me. 

Fingers so snowy white, 

Daintily clean; 
Stitches so small and light, 

Scarcely are seen. 
Over and under 

The thread we will take, 
Running and felling 

The garments we make. 

One little rule 

Must ne'er be forgot: 
Hide like a secret 

Each little knot. 
Thus active and lively 

At work and at play, 
We must grow mser 

And better each day. 



THE IDLE GIRL'S SERENADE. 



Words by G B D. 






?=F*: 



Air--" Uncle Ned." 



-\-=i- 



-5* — k s«?zn:sz=;r:^! 



! 

i There is an i - die girl, her name is l.i - zy Jane, She's a 

■a- . 0- o- -% -%■ -g- -SI- . o- -a -2- .S3- -«'. 
&^;=:?f:=h-'^3i=:»=;*z=:tig-=r:-=zi*=rb*-i-«ii=»=zi:« *— - — » =: 



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dunce long- a - go. long a - 'j:o, At books, at work, and at 









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jjlay all tlie same, She is la - z\' and i - die and slow. 



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Chorus. 

—-IS ^5,. 

— m— 



— js — .iv. — iv — v., 



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— A •— ;— « — » m—\—^ — i — 5 hS-J— S m ! — V^ — ft—* — 



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Put a - v.'ay the uee-cUe and thread. Cio without supper to bed, O 
-S- ' S- S- -S- • S- S- -S- -"P- -«■ -• . -»• -«- -«'- -(^- «>- 

•---• — « — » — — &, — i — «> — l-i*-T-» • • — h*^ — /- -• — 



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la - zy Jane, How can you ever learn, While you i-dle and tn - fle so? 

S- o- -&■ €9- . m- ••- -• • -•• -"S- 



■m- ■«■ ■$. -e. 

-» -0- 0' 



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-1-0 0-T-*- 



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THE IDLE girl's SERENADE. 43 



THE IDLE GIRL'S SERENADE. 

T'here is an idle girl, her name is lazy Jane, 
She's a dunce long ago, long ago, 

At hooks, at work, and at play all the same, 
She is lazy and idle and slow. 

Chorus — Put away the needle and thread, 
Gro without supper to bed. 
Oh, lazy Jane, how can you ever learn, 
While you idle and trifle so ? 



Her clothes are all hanging in tatters and rags, 
Her dress, oh, it is not very clean ; 

The buttons are all off her cloak and her shoes j 
Her sacque isn't fit to be seen. 



Chorus. 



Her hau' is uncombed from morning till niglit ; 

Her apron is hanging in rags ; 
Her face and her hands for dirt are a sight. 

Her hood all in tatters and ta^-s. 



Chorus 



STITCHING FIRM AND FAST. 
Words by S. T. S. 




— K- 



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-IS IS- 



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1. Stitching now so tirm and fast; For what we 



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make 


you know nnist last, 
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But if it's wrong 
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we take it 

JE. 
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out, For we must mind what we're a 

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bout. 





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8TircHma fikm and fast. 45 



STITCHING FIRM AND FAST. 

SELECTED. 

Stitching now so firm and fast ; 

For what we make you know must last, 

But if it's wrong' we take it out ; 

For we must mind what we're about. 

All kinds of sewing we must do, 
And keep our garments tidy too, 
• Our needles straight, and sharp, and bright, 
And cotton clean, and fresh, and white. 

We put all idle thoughts away. 
It's time for work and not for play ; 
So we stitch, and hem, and run, 
And finish what is once begun. 

Only see our needles fly, 
For we're taught to always try 
Not to waste our precious time. 
For that we know would be a crime. 



Wordsjby L. J. K 



OVERHANDIiNG. 

Air — '' Coming through the Rye" 



'A_ 



— 1^ ^^ ^^k m---m — \-o-m — ; ^ »^ 9 — « — — ^ % 1 — 1^ x — I 



- ver-luiiuling-, 

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*» ts> . ^ , 9 

- ver-haiid-iiig". Soe me, see me 




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sew, 
I 



Stitch - Hit: 



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e - veil, neat and deft - ly 



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As I go, I go. ( Thread grows sliorter. shorter, shorter, 
] Make ""a knot, then, shall 1? shall 1 ? 



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This you know, you know, 
No, no, no. no, no, 

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Take a new one, 
Leave the end and 



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new one, new one, 
sew It o- - ver. 



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So, so. 



sew, 
so, 



to 
so, 



sew. 
so. 



^J^=^^li^^=^^^=ii=iiii 



OVEKHAISTDING. 47 

OVERHANDING. 

Overhandingj overhanding', 

See me, see me sew, 
Stitching' even, neat, and deftly 

As I go, I go. 
Thread grows shorter, shorter, shorter, 

Tliis you know, you know ; 
Take a new one, new one, new one, 

More to sew, to sew. 
Make a knot then shall I ? shall I ? 

No, no, no, no, no ; 
Leave the end and sew it over, 

So, so, so, so, so. 

Ah, ha, ha, the end I'm reaching. 

Tell me, tell me, say. 
Shall I break the thread I'm holding *? 

Nay, nay, nay, nay, nay. 
Not until I fasten tightly. 

Make it stay, stay, stay. 
Take three stitches going backwards, 

That's the way, the way. 
Now I'll snap my thread so closely, 

None can say, can say 
have work unneat or careless 

Done to-day, to-day. 

Ah, ha, ha, my patch is finished, 

Oh, ho, ho, ho, ho. 
Put the thread that bastes it even, 

So, so, so, so, so J 
Open now and smooth it nicely. 

Lay it low, low, low ', 
Stretch it out and see the stitches. 

If they show, they show. 
Look, they stand like tiny soldiers 

In a row, a row. 
Strong and neat, so close and even, 

Thus I sew, I sew. 



STITCHING AWAY. 



)»'ords by E. F. L. 



Air — '''The IVhip-poor-'will."' By permission of 

O Ditson & Co. 



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m 



O stitch a - way brisk - ly and ne;it - ly, And 






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then we can lias -ten to play, Our snij^ing will sound ve-ry 
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k-j^EE^^^^^^^f^^^'^- 



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sweet - ly, Whilst our fin - gers fly swift - ly to - day. For 



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if we are careful in sewnig, And try all our teach-ers to 



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please, We'll grow to be neat lit - tie maid - ens, 



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STITCHING AWAY.— Concluded. 



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Not la - z\' ones, work - iiig- at 

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ease. 






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Stitch a- way, ( Echo. } stitch a - way, ( Echo. ) 

«_ 






Sew-inir so brisk -Iv and well. 



our stitch-es 




Little children should ever l;e tryini; 
To help their kind mothers at'honie; 

If watchful. M'e nlways keep finding- 
Many stitches m clothes of our own. 

In turninii- a hem we remember 

The width must be always the same, 

And the stitches so closely t0£;-ether, 

That to show them will caule us no shame. 

We will sew every day for our tencher; 

" To do our best be our one aim:" 
Our seams, (ucks and gathers will suit her, 

If we try to sew alwnvs the same. 
.Some day we will know the great lesson, 

A stitch in time saves nine; 
And now to our play we will hasten. 

For this is the end of our rhyme. 



THE STITCHES IN TIME.* 



Words by L. J. K. 



Frotn Yali College Songs, by />ertttission of 
Taititor Brothers, Merrill &= Co. 






-*- 



■-X- 



r 



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Oh hemming, run-nhig, stitching, felling, - ver-hand - ing, 






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-* — -; — o g — \ — ^ — |- ^ — — 



» — ^^ — » — I 

» — -«— ^ — ' 



but -ton - hoi - ing. Darning, gathering, chainstitch, too, We can 



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do them all, you know. Oli, darn - ing, gather-ing, 






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chain-stitch, too. Oh darn-ing, gathering, chainstitch, too, 

|V & ^ 1^ , s ^ ^ ,^— ^-^ N- — ^ 



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'-- — 01 » — - — m — ^ — - — S r ■ 



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--^J'Xjo- 






p^=S==S=f.^E^=g:EE?EfES=gEE^=E^E^fE^^EpEE 

Oh, flarn-ing, gath-er - ing, chainstitch, too. We can do them all, you know. 

_^ ^__f^ ^ ^^ ^ ^^-r-J^ ^i — ^__fe_^_^ ^^__^_ _4-rn 



* This makes a pretty Exercise song, the motions of which are suggested by 
the words of each verse. 



THE STITCHES IN TIMK," 51 



<^THE STITCHES IN TIME.'' 

O hemming, running, stitcliing, felling, 
Overlianding, buttonholing, 
Darning, gathering, chainstitcli too. 
We can do tliem all, you know. 

Now see liow swiftly om' needles fly, 
Fu'st set low, then lifted high j 
In and out how quick they go. 
Shining brightly as they sew. 

Fine twisted thread, you haste along, 
Binding piece to piece so strong, 
Who can guess where you began, 
Or the ending find, who can"? 

Neatly, lightly, swiftly sew. 
Clicking softly as you go. 
Shining needle, none shall be 
Ever better friends than we. 



STITCHING A ROBE FOR BABY. 



Words by A. W. K. 



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Music, " IVearing of the Green.''* 

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Stitching a shirt for papa, Gusset and seam and band, Oli, 



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STITCHING A ROBE FOR BABY. 53 



STITCHING A ROBE FOR BABY. 

Stitcliing- a robe for baby, 
So soft and wliite and fine, 

Never were stitches smaller 
' Than shall be these of mine. 

Stitching a shirt for papa, 
Grusset and seam and band, 

Oh, I will do it nicely, 
Hem, fell, and overhand. 

La, la la, etc. 



Stitching a dress for Dolly, 

With oversku't and basque, 
And the prettiest little ruffles. 

What more could Dolly ask? 
Stitching the soft, red flannel. 

For the children cold and poor. 
To keep the nipping fingers 

Of Jack Frost from the door. 

La, la, la, etc. 



54 riNGEK LESSON. 

FINGER LESSON. 

Air — The Whip-poor-xoill, p. 48. 

Now, fingers, stand up for your lessons j 
The sliort one, tlie thick one, the tall, 
Tlie long one must put on tlie thimble ) 
. The others should wear none at all. 

But don't think you may ever be idle^ 
Or guess j^ou'll have nothing to do ; 
You each must learn to be nimble 
And do the work fitted for you. 

Now, tliumb and forefinger, attention ! 
The needle I put in your care. 
Short finger, i)oth you and your neighbor 
To manage the tliread you're tlie pair 

Left fingers, pay all close attention : 
No needle or thread I've for you, 
But what's just as needful in sewing 
Is what you must every one do. 

It is very, yes, very important 
To hold the work even and true, 
And so you must try to be careful, 
For this work depends upon you. 

Ten fingers, you've all had your lessons, 
I pray you, remember them well ; 
Let none of you e'er be found napping — 
How naughty that would be to tell. 



FASTEN THE THREAD. 55 

FASTEN THE THREAD. 

A.1R— Buy a Broom, without the chox-us, p. 34. 

Good morning, dear Nellie ! 

How clean and liow neat- 
All over joii look, 

From your liead to your feet ! 
Pray tell me, is this 

The dress which you made ? . 
And this the neat hem. 

Which you yourself laid ? 

The stitches are tiny 

And even, I see, 
And set in quite closely, 

Just as they should be. 
The gathers seem all 

To be even and straight j 
But are they sewed firmly ? 

A minute pray wait. 

A slight little pull 

Reveals quite a hole j 
The threads all begin 

To twist and to roll. 
Now, what do you think 

The matter can be ? 
That something is wrong 

Is quite plain to see. 

Of sewing like this 

One cannot speak well; 
Just look at it closely, 

I think vou can tell. 



56 SING AND SEW NBIBLE, NIMBLE. 

Poor Nellie looked down 
And blusliingly said, 

" I think I forirot 

To fasten the thread." 



SING AND SEW. 

Air— Lightly Row. 
SELECTED. 

Sing- and sew, sing and sew, 
Nimbly let our fingers go ; 
"We should be, we should be 
Busy as a bee. 
Here we earn our daily bread 
With our needles and our thread, 
Clothing too, clothing too, 
Nice and Avarm and new. 



NIMBLE, NIMBLE. 

SELECTED. 

Nimble, nimble, tln'ead and needle, 

Time for work, and not for play, 
Keep the serving all agoing, 

Till we put the work away. 
If the stitches, little witches. 

Come uneven, pick them out, 
Double, double, toil and trouble, 

We must mind what we're about. 



DRESSMAKING LESSON. 



* 



LEARNING TO FIT. 



LESSON I. 

PREPAEINU FOR WORK. 

1. ^Vhat small trimmings are needed for ever i/ plain basque ? 

Lining, sleeve lining, tape, hooks and eyes, whale- 
bones, cord, sewing silk, buttonhole twist, basting 
cotton, and plenty of pins. 

2. What Ivind of lining is best f 

Linen is the best, because it stretches least. If 
twilled silesia be used, pull and iron it before cut- 
ting. 

3. How is lining to be pulled F 

Begin at the upper right-hand comer and stretch 
it on the bias, every six inches, to the end of the 
piece ; do the same from the upper left-hand corner, 
then stretch it on the straight across the goods, 
then iron. 

4. On tvhat shoidd a lining be cut f 

On an uncovered wooden table, or a lap-board ; 
never on the lap. 

* This lesson has been carefully prepared for adyaiiced classes in sew- 
ing schoolS; and is bere published by permission of Miss S. T. Sands. 



58 FITTING FROM THE FIGURE, 



LESSON II. 



FITTIISTG FEOM THE FIGURE. 

1. What is the first thing to he clone towards fitting a ivaisi f 

Having tlie lady stand in an easy position, pin the 
lining, lap allowed to the dress hem ; pin very 
closely. 

2. ]VJiat is the second step f 

Pin the lining smoothly to the shoulder, cut out 
the neck, and proceed to fit the darts. 

3. What next f 

Pin the lining under the arm, cut out the armhole, 
and cut off the shoulder. 

4. How do you fit tJie back ? 

Pin the center fold of the lining to the center of 
the back, shaping in the seam at the waist, so that 
the lining will be straight across the back from arm 
to arm. 

5. How do you fit tJie other parts f 

Pin the shoulders together, cut out the neck, then 
the armhole, and pin together under the arm. 



FITTING FROM THE FIGURE. 59 



LESSOISr III. 

FITTING (cOISTTII^UED). 

1. How is the side form fitted f 

After the back is fitted, mark with a pencil the 
proper shape before taking off the dress ; this line 
must be carefully creased and cut, then basted with 
a quarter-inch seam. 

2. Will not this make the dach too small f 

No, because the back of a waist is apt to stretch, 
and the lining being fitted over a waist is large 
enough to afford the seam. 

3. How much seam should he allowed in different parts f 
One inch and a half for shoulder and under- arm 

seams and front lap ; one-quarter inch for back and 
side forms, unless the goods pull — in that case at 
least half an inch. 

4. Must each dress made for the same person he thus fitted f 
By no means. After the lining is perfect, cut an 

exact pattern in stiff brown paj)er, crease every 
seam, and keep it for an outline model. 



60 TRYING ON. 

LESSON ly. 

TRYING ON. 

1. How should a waist he tried on? 

Wrong side out ; one side must then be made 
exact, and the other fitted precisely like it by 
measurement off the figure ; unless there be a 
marked deformity, when both sides are fitted on the 
figure. 

2. Hoiv many darts should a dress have f 

One for a half-fitting, two for a cross-basque seam, 
three for a perfectly plain waist. 

3. How far apart should the darts he? 

From an inch to an inch and a half at the waist, 
for the two front ones ; the third midway between 
them and the under-arm seam. 

4. How high should darts run ? 

They should end exactly at the fullest point of 
the bust. 

5. How does the depth of the dart seams at the waist affect the 
set of the dress ? 

If they be taken deep, the bust will be full ; if 
shallow, narrower. IS'ever let out dart seams to 
make the dress larger, that only tightens the bust. 



TRYING ON. 61 

LESSON Y. 

TRYING ON (continued). 

1. How long should the shoulder seam he f 
About seven inches. 

2. Wliat effect does taking up the front shoulder seam have f 

It takes fullness from the bust, and shortens the 
waist in front. 

3. What is the effect of taking up the hack sJwulder seam ? 

It draws out fullness from the arm-scye, and 
shortens the waist behind. 

4. If the waist lap too much at the throat, what should he done ? 

The front shoulder seam must be drawn down, 
this will lower the neck. 

5. If the dress he too tight, where must it he let out? 

In the under-arm seam, and nowhere else, unless 
the tightness be across the shoulder • then let out 
the back seam. 

6. When ready for the sleeve, how large should the armhole he f 

From fifteen to eighteen inches, according to the 
size of the figure. 



62 SLEEVES. 

LESSOJST yi. 

SLEEVES. 

1. How should measure he taken for sleeves? 

Kaise the arm in the form of a square and measure 
from the arm-scye to the elbow, thence to the wrist 
bone, inside the same, the arm being held out 
straight. Measure the wrist and the thick part of 
the arm. 

2. How is a plain coat sleeve cut f 

Let the upper be at least one inch and a half larger 
than the under, and shape it in between the top and 
the elbow three-quarters of an inch. Full the extra 
length of the upper in at the elbow. Round the top 
one inch and a half above the seam, and cut down 
the under one inch. 

i3. How should a seam he finished f 

Turned u]3 one-quarter of an inch, and faced with 
a bias strip of material one inch wide. 

4. How large slwuld a sleeve he at the top f 

About an inch and a half larger than the armhole ; 
this fullness must be held in between the shoulder 
seam and front arm scye. 



CUTTING THE OUTSIDE. 63 



LESSON yii. 



CUTTIIS^G THE OUTSIDE. 



1. In laying on a pattern, what part should come even with 
the selvedge- of the goods f 

In the front, the edge of the hem or lap shoiild be 
exactly even with the selvedge. For the back, pin 
the neck to the broadest part of the back. The pat- 
tern should be line with the selvedg-e. 



■■&' 



2. How should side forms he placed f 

So that the point of the curve is on a line with 
the selvedge, and the waist line straight with the 
grain of the goods. 

3. How should sleeves he laid on f 

The top of the seam should be placed on the sel- 
vedge, the elbow one inch within it. 

4. What is the rule for plaids and stripes f 

It plaid or striped goods are used, match the plaids 
up and down and across all over the waist, exactly. 
Have both sleeves precisely alike. 



64 BASTING FINISHfNG THE WAIST. 

LESSON yiii. 

BASTING. 

1. How slioidd ivorh he hasted? 

Very evenly, witli strong cotton, short stitches, 
exactly in the seam, and the ends well fastened. 

2. How should lining and outside he hasted together f 

Lay the outside on the board, the lining npon it, 
and baste carefully upon the mark of each seam, 
then one inch from the edge all around. 

3. Should the lining he stretched f 

No, it should be smooth, except that the edges of 
bias seams should be a little full. 

4. How is the waist to he stitched f 

The tension must be perfect, the stitching be 
placed exactly on the bastings, and the ends well 
fastened. 

LESSON IX. 

FINISHING THE WAIST. 

In dressmaking establishments, when a waist is stitched, it is 
passed to a " finisher." These girls receive from $12.00 to $15.00 a 
week for this easy worlv. 

1. Wliat should he done when a waist is stitched f 

Each seam must be matched exactly and pinned ; 

the armholes and neck shaped and overhanded ; the 

seams notched and trimmed olf . 



FINISHING THE AVATST. 65 

2. Should waists he pressed f 

Every seam in a woolen waist should be opened 
and well pressed. Silk must not be touclied with 
an iron. 

3. Hoiv are the seams finished f 

Every seam must be either bound with gal oon held 
a little full, or else overcast with silk very closely. 

4. How is a waist to he honed f 

Bone casings should l)e sewed by hand on each 
dart and under arm seam. • 

5. How are these made f 

Of bias strips of lining, or double tape, so that 
bone, being between two tapes, does not easily wear 
through the dress. Use thin bones. 

6. Is an inside hclt necessary f 

Yes, very ; it should be securely fastened to the 
back and side-form seams. 

7. Hoiv is the hottom of a hasqiie to he finished f 

Plainly faced with the material, one and a half 
inches deep, or else corded or piped. 

8. Wliere should tite sleeves go f 

The back seam should first meet the side-form 
seam, or touch the arm-scye. 



CHART. 

Sliowing the diflferent pieces of a waist, and mode of placing them on the 

groods correctl}-. 



Noi. 



NO 2. 




m 



CHART QUESTIONS. 67 



LESSON X. 

CHART QUESTIONS. 

1. How many pieces has a plain ivaistf 
Five. 

2. Name them ? 

1st, front ; 2d, back ; 3d, side form ; 4tli, upper 
sleeve ; 5th, lower sleeve. 

3. Wliat seam joins the front under-arm seam? 
The shorter side-form seam. 

L What seam joins the shorter hack seam f 
The long and curved side-form seam. 



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